1934 Dodge. The Stewart mini van

The bottom end is together. I cleaned up all the casting and rough stuff on the block and heads. Any sharp corners are now smoothed out.


Today I worked on one of the heads. In this pic you can see where I ground off the smog head markings off the head. also note the bolt.

I wanted it to look like an earlier engine and all the bolt holes and smog marking wouldn't let me pull it off. So I bottomed the bolt, cut it off and ground down the rest of the casting on the front and back of the heads.

All the grinding marks will be followed by a final sanding to get it smoother and a few coats of hi-temp primer before the block and heads are painted.

If there's one thing I can say to help get you through a better engine build it's to gasket match your intake, heads and exhaust ports. It easy to do. It give you a little bit more horse power, better gas milage and helps your engine perform through it's power band better. As you can see GM was not up to cleaning up and matching stuff very well.


Little off the top, some off the sides and don't forget to clean up the EGR bumps on the bottom of the port. It still needs a little cleaning up but you get the idea.

If you want to get a few more ponies take off about 60 thousands off the lower ramp back in the port. Smooth it out so it's not so hi.

Blown49 wrote:I think in the 235 sixes they install a "lump" back there to allow them to breath better. They actually sell lumps for this.

I'm not sure how the 235's are set up but on most V8's the ramp is smoothed out to help with the airflow. It's like taking a wall and turning it into a hill. It flows over it better. The EGR bumps on the bottom of the port was put there to break up any gas that is sitting in that low spot. With the ramp smoothed out it's not going to sit there. Also if you have your carb tune perfect by the time the air and fuel meet that hump it should be the perfect mix for free flow. One thing I didn't add before was if you do your ports don't polish them. Don't smooth them all out. It needs to have a rough finish to it to let the air and fuel mix. The rough walls let the two join better than the smooth. It you want to smooth something out do the exhaust ports so they flow

I bought this 2008 Yaris for the ol' lady a few days ago.
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why post pics on here. because it's the perfect car to haul hotrod parts home in. ice cold ACblowing and the sound of my new split wish bones and headlight stand bouncing off each other when you hit a bump.

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i was tickled to get these. the bones come off a 36 Ford and a set of headlight stand are a set someone cut down for a fenderless hotrod out of what looks to be 32 ford headlight bar?? I found them at the Punkin Run back in the swap area. Nick Noble(Poor Boys CC) had them. I went to school with Nick and he made me a good deal $75.00 for the bones and he tossed in the headlight stand for free. I almost bought a set of stands off ebay a month ago. with shipping would have been over $75. so I feel pretty good about my new toys. I wasn't going to go to the swap but changed my mind at the last minute. never know what you will find huh?

got the old engine out tonight. next comes welding up some holes and making a waving firewall smooth again.

I was wanting to do some work on the 34 while I had the engine out but it has sat all winter. I see that the 36 Chevy is taking up more of my time than I thought so I'm finishing up the engine and I'm going to stick it back in the 34 so I can drive it if I want to. maybe after the 36 truck is done I'll start cutting on the body of the 34.

I tossed on the intake and valve covers last night just to take a look. the block will be painted and the aluminum stuff will be bead blasted to give it a nice look. not a good picture but you get the hint.

motor looks pretty good.

thought I'd get my long block together tonight but the gunk covered oil pan was put in the parts cleaner to get the grime off of it and after cleaning it up I found two spots where it looks like it's punctured or almost punctured through. with the miles I rack up on these junkers I don't want and oil leak. I'll have to go to the other garage tomorrow and see if I have an extra oil pan. if not then I will see what Ky Motors wants for one.

let me know today and we will finish that motor up today

i should have an extra oil pan. let me check before u buy one.

The engine is together and ready for some paint. Corey tossed in some old spark plugs to keep the paint from getting into the engine. The intake and vaive covers were used to keep paint out of unwanted places also.

here's Corey cleaning up some of the pullies and stuff

The engine was first wiped down with a rag, shot with brake cleaner and then the air gun and a clean rag to clean up anything left behind. First was the hi-temp primer was shot.

Then the paint. This is were I got a little ticked off. I had to order the color paint I wanted for the block. I wanted something that looked like you could have bought it back in the early 60's. Plus I wanted something no one else had. I found this odd mint green and spent something like 14 bucks for one can of it. I ordered it online and had it shipped to me. If you look at the can top you can see it didn't turn out the color it is on the cap. It looks like a light Pontiac blue. I thought maybe it was the primer so I shot the pullies without the primer. SAME COLOR! I guess I will leave it the color it is for now.

I need to bead blast my valve covers, intake and spacers and then they can be bolted on for good.

looking good

GOD! Thats a ugly color!