1936 oldsmobile

ok to make a long story short, I am attempting to take off most all the paint I can and leave the BARE METAL yup sure am. I tested some small pieces of metal with the Clear enamel Rustoleaum ( Yes i spelled it wrong ) but no rust appeared under it so I figure this is the start to something different.
I am also removing the motor Sunday and getting ready to lay a nice SB 350 we all wanna hear these tire make noise.

here is the link of progress I will update everytime I work on it.

http://picasaweb.google.com/wryanjr/WorkingProgress1936Olds

Me out
Bill

The only input I have is that the "RUSTOLEUM" may take a while to dryusually stays soft for a good while unless baked, just previous experience.. You might have better luck using a Cheap brand of Automotive Clear, either Urathane or Laquer based clear NASON is a cheaper brand...or if you want look up "GIBBS BRAND" its a protectant spray that is used to protect bare metal during shipping and handling. I think I posted a link to it on here some where maybe under tool's.I'd be more than happy to help you clear it if you go with an automotive brand if needed....Should be a real cool car when your done..

I think the bare metal look is really cool. I know brookville roadsters has it on there demo car. http://www.brookville-roadster.com/3WINDOWCOUPE/3windowcoupefullfenderpage.htm

LRS30 wrote:The only input I have is that the "RUSTOLEUM" may take a while to dryusually stays soft for a good while unless baked, just previous experience.. You might have better luck using a Cheap brand of Automotive Clear, either Urathane or Laquer based clear NASON is a cheaper brand...or if you want look up "GIBBS BRAND" its a protectant spray that is used to protect bare metal during shipping and handling. I think I posted a link to it on here some where maybe under tool's.I'd be more than happy to help you clear it if you go with an automotive brand if needed....Should be a real cool car when your done..

yeah I was thinking the same thing, If you look at the last two pictures you will see I have the oven on. Set a heater about 2 feet away for added help. i actually thought the glow looked neat. I am not worring about all the metal marks at this time, just wanted something over it. and needed to see what metal really sucked ass. I will be replacing the botoms of all doors.

thnks for the heads up.

bill

I was supposed to get a 36 olds years ago as a neighbor had one in a barn at a relitives somewhere around Huntington West Virginia but the weekend before we were going down to look at it someone stole it. Jeff

that sucks , but let me be the first to say I have run into so many headaches trying to get parts, so I decide there is no chance on my income to make the car lke new orginal. So time to have fun with it.

Bill

I able to find out there were less than 25 registered 1936 oldsmobiles in the united states!

There is a 36 olds in a junkyard near here and its been years since I looked at it and its probably still there,I cant remember if its a 2 or 4 door and if I remember correctly its hiding behind something. Its in the yard in Mt Sterling Ohio and if you want to look at it let me know as I need to go back there since I have mostly new vehicles in the fleet since I was there last. Jeff

Well this past week found me replacing the lost metal in the doors thanks to Ryan, I have now finished both driver doors. I will be posting some pictures this week of this mess. Next up will be running new brake lines and installing the 1969 chevy truck master cylinder. Maybe even have a work night here one night for this.

Bill

here is the link to the progress. i fyou can read yo will understand to click on the right one!!!

http://picasaweb.google.com/wryanjr

looks great keep up the good work!

http://picasaweb.google.com/wryanjr/NewVroomVroom

So friday last i picked up the new motor for da car. It was a crate engine in a van until wrecked lucky for me. 3970010 block hehe yup 350 4bm I am in the process of painting and getting everything else ready , not sure if wanna use the intake that was provided. eldebrock performer 2101 series. I got the carb , looking for headers at this point but want to make the motor mounts first and go from there.

the link is to the pics of the engnie.

bill

oh yea the tranny is a turbo 350 nto a 400 :-( but i guess it will work too.

So here to date I am ready to start ammembling the motor, the list is as follows might even be a good shot at a work shop night would have to be a short notice due to my work schedule but reguardless, I got the motor ounts in today...

350 bored .30 this now is to be a 355 ci not sure hy but ok.
stock crank
comp cam energizer 12-238-2
comp lifters
new timing chain
new HF oil unit and pick up
Edlebrock intake 7101 series
Holley 650 Electric choke
new oil pan

th350 tranny,
shift kit to be installed
new valve body
need to get a tourqe converter not happy ith how the one I have looks.

I would like to replace the heads aventually but for no they will stay, reguardless I know I didnt need to replace all this shit but firgured no better time while the engine is out and easy to get to.

so at this piont I need to set the engine and weld in the motor mounts...

Will get some pictures up dated soon

Bill

Do you have .030 over pistons for it?

yep the block was already complete when i received it. but yes to answer your ??

Work session at Bills house this Sunday. We need some help pulling some parts off a parts cars that he's gonna use for rod. Nov 1st. Time 1 pm?