1989 camaro iroc/rs

Crank socket came in the mail this morning. Found three longer bolts for the puller and got the damper off. Got the motor turning and got all of the pistons out. Timing chain, cam, lifters, mains, crank, and whatever else im not thinking of comes off and out tomorrow.

good deal

Glad to hear the socket helped Rob. Make sure when you remove the main caps to # them and put them back in the same spot each one came off. Good luck man.

I dragged an old 10 bolt rear end into the barn to clean it up and sell it. Then i measured it and its the same length as my rear in my car. All the bolts were loose on the pumpkin for some reason so i opened it up and ran the numbers on the gears. SOMEONE PUT AFTERMARKET 4.11 POSI GEARS IN THIS! We have been trying to give this thing away. Not now guess what i'm gonna make fit in my car!!! Control arm brackets are even in the same spot i need em to be. Good day.

Motor block is at the machine shop. I was pretty sure it was going to be $75, but nope it's going to cost $175 now! I took the dash out of the camaro to start stripping the wiring. Worked on the Powerglide for a few hours today. Im having trouble getting the front pump off so i took the valve body out and started lightly hammering the pump out. Its half way there now, just got too cold out in the barn. Im going to put a new clutch hub and steels, and yada yada in. Im also going to put a transpak in. I ordered a new rear main seal gasket kit. After i get the motor block back and i order piston rings i can start putting it back together. I already have all new bearings. Im getting a gear drive for christmas.

Why are ya gonna run a glide in there? Are ya buiding just a drag car? Put up some pics of your build

magicman_1968 wrote:Why are ya gonna run a glide in there? Are ya buiding just a drag car? Put up some pics of your build

No drag car. Just wanted a powerglide. I dont think right now there is anything to take a picture of lol

Me and Dennis fully ported the heads today. I ordered about 400 dollars worth of parts today too.... Lunati .515''/.515'' lift cam and lifter kit, ARP cam bolts, a whole bunch of gaskets, windage tray, lifter valley baffle, transpak for the trans, and a bunch of other stuff im not thinking about. I have to wait until CompCams is open so i can call them about pushrods. Harland Sharp 1.5 roller rockers are next after that. Still no motor from the machine shop.......

Rear end is coming out tomorrow. 72 Cutlass rear is going in. Im going to have to find someones plasma cutter to cut the brackets off each one and then weld the Camaro brackets onto the Cutlass rear end. Im going with a 4.10 gear in the car. The powerglide is going to kill my 60 foot times so im going to try to make up for it with a little stall and gear.

Well i dont like what the machine shop told me today.... Cylinder 1 and 2 are so far away from the other cylinders i have to bore it at least .20 over to clean everything up. I guess im going .40 over to 357 and a half. That shouldnt have cooling problems to bad.....

I've had my motor back for a while. Just got my pistons back from Monarch's. Put the cam and crank and everything else just to find out Monarch's didnt bore my motor like I paid for. I went to put the piston in and it went down half an inch and got stuck. Pulled it back out and measured all the cylinders, they all say 4.000 with my caliper. Should be reading 4.020 like I paid for! They will be getting a call... Not a good car week....

I have finally made up my insane mind on eveything. Everythings worked out. I've had six of the Speed Pro hyperuetectic pistons in for weeks now. I went .020 over to keep the cylinder walls as strong as I could.

4.11 is to numerically high of a gear so it's down to 3.42's or 3.73's. Most likely 3.73.

I've decided to go with a 700r4 for the overdrive and numerous other reasons. I'm looking for a 87-93 700r4 out of a Third Gen if anyone has one. It has to be 87-93 though. The real name for them is a 4l60. In 93' they came out with a new transmission in trucks called the 4l60E.

3000 stall converter is just about right for what I'm wanting. 3.06 first gear and a 3.42/3.73 will compliment it nicely.

72 8.5 Cutlass rear end with a Richmond full spool is what I'm going for. Not good for the street, at all, but now that I'm keeping the Mustang this one is my first DRAG CAR. Not my first car.

I think I'm going to build a roll cage for it. Most likely a ten point and then tie it into the subframe connectors I'm building.

Three inch dual exhaust with Hedmann elite series Hedders. I will be attempting to build all of that by myself and the wide x-pipe with cutouts also.

Lakewood 90/10 drag struts up front along with Lakewood 50/50 drag shocks in the back. Camaro v6 coil springs in the back with Moroso Trick front coil springs up front. That will give me near optimum squat and weight transfer.

More to come.

Polycarbonate windows will take a lot of weight down and that's what I'm going for. Removing twenty pounds of weight is the equivalent of ten extra horsepower. I've dropped hundreds and I'm still at it.

My intake manifold is a freshly blasted Holley Street Dominator and my carburetor is a Holley 4160 vaccum secondary 750. I will be rebuilding it and modifying it. A spacer will most likely be used also.

The motor should have about 375-450 horsepower depending on if I ported the heads correctly.

The heads are 305 H.O. heads that I have done a LOT of work to. I enlarged the intake runners, did some work to the long side radius, cut down the valve guide boss a little bit, and port matched them. I created a step along the exhaust port which is supposed to help flow a considerable amount. I de-shrouded the valves so now the combustion chambers are around 61-62 cc's instead of 58. Also I found out something that will help flow a little bit, the intake valves are 1.94! They look like stock valves so I'm confused. 4416 casting heads.

Compression ratio is way too high for the street so I'm going to try to retard the timing to stay away from detonation. With 58 cc chambers and a .016 head gasket the compression is 11:2:1. If that was the case, around 60 or more of the horsepower I have built will all be from raising the C.R. from 8:1. Most of that will be taken away from retarding the timing that much though.

More to come.

I bought my welder last week. Hobart Handler 210. Welds 24 gauge to 3/8 in. in a single pass. I got it from Tractor Supply and the guy working there gave me a 5% discount and accidentally threw in stuff he wasn't supposed to. He threw in a real nice padded set of gloves made with kevlar, MIG pliers, a full welder cover, and some other things.

I just made an extension cord for it so, I am going to power it with the dryer receptacle. The dryer is using 10-3 wire and a 30 amp breaker so that will work.

The extension cord is 10-3 SJO cord cord I bought from Home Depot. I went to several places looking for a receptacle and plug for the 220 and couldn't find any. Then I went to a different Tractor Supply and they had Hobart made ones, really expensive but, they were all I could find.

I worked on my carburetor some today also. I bent the secondary metering body plate pretty bad trying to get it off the gaskets. I took an old body hammer and smoothed it back even, slowly.