Aryan's 73 Mustang

After we got the wheel on we ran into trouble. After sitting it down my thoughts on the traction ??bars were true. They were in a bind. Sitting the car down the wheel wells sit nicely on top of the back tire. NOT GOOD!!

What happen is when they welded the tractions/ladder bars to the car they had the car jacked up with the rearend free floating. THAT IS NOT HOW TO DO IT! After looking around I seen it had shackles on the back. Me and Aryan yanked out the bolts and moved the rearend up.

The rearend was a lot more loose than before so we trimmed the fender lips off both sides. Even if it drops below the tire line it will now clear.

For anyone thinking of hooking up a ladder or traction bar set up remember. Don't put them on with the rearend jacked up and the rearend hanging down. Jack the car up and set the rearend on some big jack stands and sit the jack down. That way the springs are loaded like the car would be while you are driving it. The ladder bars will work better this way for normal driving. If you are going full race and won't see any street duty toss about 125 or more pounds of weight on the left side in the trunk. This will preload your suspension like you are sitting in it for the track and simulate the car loading up and squatting the rearend when the green light comes on the tree. For the very best if you can afford it just get some floaters for the rearend and you won't have to worry about it at all.

So back to the Mustang. While I was under the car I seen the modulator valve was unhooked. I ran a line to the carb and the car shift like it should now. No more beating it to get it to shift. Full out, wide open throttle it worked fine but driving around the city with it unhooked was for the birds. The second part is the best. It still is a slug out of the hole but now the rearend drops and the front end comes up. It's transfering weight like it should. The traction device had everything so bound up it wouldn't work right. It has new springs on it so I'm not sure how much spring warp it would have coming out of the hole but a set of traction bars will be in the works soon. That should have the rear finished. The car also rides like a completely different car now. Funny how something as simple as putting ladder bars on the right way would have solved all this.

It's a Ford.. Enough said.. Just kidding.. I like the car and just as long as Aryan is happy that's really all that matters. Good work Steve!

Yeppers, kudos to you and Aryan, Steve! I am amazed that the rearend was hacked together like it was and that you did not run into even more issues with it. But at least it's fixed now and driving/launching how it should. Thanks for the update and I look forward to seeing the interior come together!

Later,

Lee

Looking for a 9" Ford 3rd member with ring and pinion. Preferably 3.55 but will take anything from a 3.00 to 4.11's If you have anything let me know.

RebStew wrote:Looking for a 9" Ford 3rd member with ring and pinion. Preferably 3.55 but will take anything from a 3.00 to 4.11's If you have anything let me know.

i thout that u just bout one for the ltl mans stang

Butch Thompson wrote:

RebStew wrote:Looking for a 9" Ford 3rd member with ring and pinion. Preferably 3.55 but will take anything from a 3.00 to 4.11's If you have anything let me know.

i thout that u just bout one for the ltl mans stang

It was junk. 275 gear and it was rusted up beyond use. May be able to use the carrier. Haven't ripped the gears all the way out to see what the rest of it looks like. Not sure if the carrier even useable.

Good grief, Steve! Did that rearend come out of the Ohio River or something? That's a shame it's all but a waste.

Later,

Lee

I think it was stored with the third member pointing up. All the gear oil settled to the housing and time took it's toll. I tried clening it up but just a little too scary to use. Someone told me tranny fluid would eat rust. Not sure if that's true. I thought about shoving it down in some trans fluid for a month and see what it looks like.

RebStew wrote:Someone told me tranny fluid would eat rust.

I've heard some good things about "Evapo-Rust." A.Z. supposed to stock the stuff.

http://www.evapo-rust.com/photos/

Mollassase or how ever its spelled works great and its cheap on eating rust... I loved to find a more highway friendly gear for my truck... Or a nice 4 or 5 speed that will bolt up to a Y block with a truck Bellhousing.....

Looks like that gouge I got from the burnout box at Tri State nicked the rear tube. It keeps slowly going flat. If anyone has an extra racing tube that will fit a 29X10.5 tire let me know. The big tubes they are selling at Advance and Autozone has that big valve that won't fit through the valve stem hole unless you drill it like Randy did. I don't want to drill it..

Aryan is driving me nuts over the 40 for 40 track day. He's wants to race the 'Stang. I need to get a tube for the slick. Last track day we picked something up out of the burnout box and cut a grove around the slick and nipped the tube. When I get the car down here I'll get the tire broken down and make sure nothing is in the slick.

I'd like to find some 29" tall cheater tires for the back. That way I can drive it around town a bit.